Friday, 4 May 2012

Pieminister: Butter ‘nut nut’ pie


One strand on this blog has me cooking recipes from the book Pieminister: a pie for all seasons (Tristan Hogg and Jon Simon, 2011). Although this variation on American pumpkin pie is in the autumn section of the book (page 154), we still have British-grown squashes from vegetable boxes in the veg rack (and the thicker skinned squashes do keep well).

I made the suggested half-quantity of shortcrust pastry, following the book (page 10; the all-butter Pieminister way). This was barely enough to line the shallow pie dish I was using, but once you taste the pie you realize you don't want to overdo the pastry on this one. The pastry is cooked 15-20 minutes before the filling is added.

The filling is made from boiled cubes of butternut squash blended with cream (200ml), a couple of eggs, soft brown sugar (80g), and some grated nutmeg. I used a butternut squash that was to hand and, not wanting any left, put in more than the amount suggested in the recipe. I kept all the other filling measurements as in the book; it worked fine. The filling gets layered onto the part-cooked pastry base and put back in the oven for about 20 minutes.

I made the topping using flaked almonds (100g), just a few hazelnuts, and walnuts (100g) instead of the suggested pecans. These were pulsed in a blender and mixed with maple syrup (4 tablespoons) and pumpkin seeds (40g). When this has been stirred together it is put over the butternut filling, which should have just set, and the pie returned to the oven for about another 10 minutes to roast the nutty topping.

I am glad I made the effort (i.e., crossed the road to the shop) to obtain the sunflower seeds. Not an ingredient I use much, but they work well on the topping here; the partly-ground nuts with the whole sunflower seeds giving a very satisfying texture. I did not feel I needed to drizzle on the suggested extra maple syrup.

This pie is filling. The book suggests that this recipe serves 6. It will keep our family of four going for at least three days as dessert (with the remaining cream, with yoghurt, with ice cream).



See also:
Pieminister: Homity Pie:

Pieminister: Courgette & chickpea filo pie:

The Pieminister book:

Wednesday, 4 April 2012

Raw Vegan Rock and Roll: Jónsi and Alex's Recipe Book


A raw vegan diet is not the first thing you associate with a rock and roll lifestyle, but that’s the food eaten by Jónsi Thor Birgisson and Alex Somers.

Jónsi is the frontman with Icelandic band Sígur Rós. He has also released a solo album and records with his partner Alex. I have included a link to my Jónsi and Alex-related playlist on Spotify at the end of this post.

Jónsi and Alex have produced a booklet - Good Heart Recipe Book - with 15 of their favourite recipes and made it available for fans to download and printout for free from their website:

I was interested in exploring raw vegan food, so I have been preparing some of their recipes to get a feel for this style of food preparation.

Gôđan daginn Super Smoothie
I saw the word smoothie and immediately reached for the milk in the fridge. It was then that I realised these recipes were going to require a slightly different way of thinking on my part. In addition to the lack of dairy, another distinctive feature of this recipe is the mix of green leaves with fruit. It calls for a banana, an apple, handfuls of green leaves (e.g., spinach, parsley, kale), frozen berries and cold water. They have this for breakfast and vary it every morning with different fruit and greens.

I made mine with banana, apple, spinach and frozen blackcurrants (grown in the garden last year). I had some in the morning, but preferred it in the afternoon after it had been in the fridge for a few hours.

Being serious vegan smoothie-makers, Jónsi and Alex suggest imaginative optional extras, which include goji berries, spirulina, blue green algae, hemp seed oil, maca powder, crystal manna, and young coconut. Maca is the dried root of a plant grown in Peru and crystal manna is a preparation of freshwater algae (I looked them up so you don’t have to!). Their smoothie shares a name with a track on the most recent Sígur Rós studio album.

It’s already clear that a good blender/juicer is an essential piece of kit for this type of diet. With no cooking involved, the blender is the tool doing most of the work for you.

The second and third recipes in the booklet are for Thai Coconut Curry and Noodle Rainbow Miso Soup. Both look tasty and colourful. The noodles in question are not real noodles, but noodle-thin slices of cucumber, bell pepper and other vegetables. Pasta is off the menu as it needs cooking.

A Classic Green Soup is based on juiced carrots, while a Sweet Garlic Dressing blends together dates, garlic, parsley, cider vinegar and seasoning.

Raw vegan is colourful food. There is no cooking to leach out or degrade the colour pigments in the food. The dishes are a picture (and are artfully pictured in the booklet; Alex does the art work for Sígur Rós and related projects).

Pistachio Pate
I like pistachio nuts, so no surprise I liked this one. The recipe calls for 125g Pistachio nuts, a clove of garlic, the juice of 1/3 lemon, a handful of parsley, some olive oil, salt, and water to thin. Everything is blended together until creamy.

I used a 200g bag of roasted Pistachios in their shells (when shelled this leaves 105g of nuts). I didn’t skimp on the lemon or parsley. It made for a good lunch, with crispy (unbuttered) toast, tomatoes and grapes.

Creamy Spinach Dip involves blending together tahini paste, dates, garlic, lime juice, spinach and other ingredients. Green Pine Pesto is a traditional mix of basil leaves, pine nuts, garlic and olive oil.

Avō Mango Mash
This seems a very simple recipe: just cube a mango and an avocado and mix them together (with a bit of salt and pepper). However, to get it right you seem to need fruit of equal size and equivalent ripeness. My avocado was smaller and riper than my mango (it would be best if both were very ripe). Nice idea this, the mango supplies the sweetness and the dominant taste, while the avocado supplies the creaminess and enhanced mouthfeel. I saved some of this for later, returning the avocado stone and adding lemon juice to the bowl to keep the avocado colourful. Good, but I think I prefer my avocado and mango served separately.

Macadamia Monster Mash
Like the Pistachio Pate, but with Macadamia nuts, which I have not bought for years. I must buy them more often.

Sundried Good Heart Sauce mixes fresh and sundried tomatoes with dates and herbs.

Indian Sagg-Acado
The recipe calls for a blenderful of spinach, avocado, tomato, cardamom seed, garlic, ginger, and tandoori masala and garam masala powder; with diced apple, tomato and red onion ontop. Using the spices to hand, I substituted cumin, coriander and medium curry powder. This was the most popular recipe I have done to date from the booklet. It’s a bit like an Indian guacamole.

The dessert section contains recipes for The Best Chocolate Milk (without milk), Strawberry Milkshake (ditto), Strawberry Pie, Arkansas Apple Pie and Chocolate Walnut Fudge. Nothing is baked, of course, while the fat used is almond butter and coconut oil. Agave and agave nectar also feature.  The apple pie, with its crust made of coconut, pecans, dates, cinnamon, almond butter and salt, looks particularly appealing. I have bookmarked it for later.

I have been having fun with these recipes, but I also have a hungry family to feed. They are demanding their roast beef (well, pasta actually); the eldest described raw vegan as “a diet made up of dips” as she reached for the bacon and eggs. Therefore, I think I have gone as far as I can with this at the moment, but may return with another post at a later date. The authors “encourage improvisation and experimentation” and I have a feeling there is a Welsh twist to be put on some of these dishes!

In the meantime, here is a link to my Jónsi and Alex/ Jónsi/ Sígur Rós playlist on Spotify, comprising two hours from the dreamier and more ambient side of their music:





Friday, 30 March 2012

Plastic Bags, Local Shops and DPVC


In October last year, the Welsh Government introduced a scheme whereby retailers must charge 5p for each single-use carrier bag. This has dramatically reduced the use of environmentally-damaging plastic bags and, because the money can be donated to charity, is also helping good causes.

Here in Dinas Powys, a number of local shops have Dinas Powys Voluntary Concern (DPVC) charity boxes on their counters for the 5p bag charge. From October 2011 to February 2012, a total of £250 was collected from these boxes and donated to DPVC. Additional donations have also been made in the boxes, along with money found in the street with no identifiable owner.

The DPVC collection boxes can be found at Valley View Fruit Stores, Mark Griffiths Family Butchers, the Village Stores, TH & L Jones Chemists, The Green Room, Bank of Flowers and Happy Embroidery.

These stores are supportive of the same aims as DPVC. For example, Jan and Tony Mapstone, of Valley View Fruit Stores, and Mark Griffith the butcher deliver to those in the community who are elderly or less mobile, while the chemist collects prescriptions for those who find going out difficult.

I wrote the above for Depend, which is published by DPVC. The newsletter is delivered to every house in Dinas Powys (I have just delivered my bagful to the Murch Crescent area). 

The bag charge money will help DPVC, for example, operate a minibus/ambulance for getting the elderly and infirm to the shops and hospital. DPVC are based at the Resource Centre, Murchfield Community Hall, Dinas Powys. DPVC are celebrating their 40th anniversary this year.

There is a new website, where you can find out more about DPVC activities. You can download the Dinas Powys Community Directory and soon you’ll be able to read the rest of Depend (navigate to Media, Downloads):

DPVC have also recently joined Twitter: @DPVC

In addition, I tweet about Murchfield Community Hall activities: @murchfield



A previous blog post concerning DPVC:


Wednesday, 21 March 2012

Wales the True Taste


Wales the True Taste (Cymru Y Gwir Flas) is a brand founded by the Welsh Government to promote food and drink products. A key part of this initiative is the annual Food and Drink Awards. At the 2011-12 awards, held last October in Llandudno, over 1,000 entrants competed in numerous categories. Winning an award allows a producer to use the Wales the True Taste logo (gold, silver or bronze), which has become a mark of excellence within the Welsh food and drink industries. Award winners also take part in a range of promotional activities, such as the showcase held last night (20 March) at ffresh restaurant and bar in the Wales Millennium Centre (WMC), Cardiff Bay.

ffresh is the first restaurant to become a Wales the True Taste partner. They have a commitment to sourcing Welsh products, with around 30% of ingredients coming from Wales the True Taste partners. For their annual spring showcase, ffresh invited some of their Wales the True Taste suppliers to exhibit and served a range of taster dishes from the restaurant menu that feature award-winning Wales the True Taste ingredients.

To start the event, there were short speeches from Janet Davies, from the Board of the WMC, and the Welsh Government’s Deputy Minister for Agriculture Alun Davies AM. Shaun Hill, the Michelin-starred consulting chef at ffresh further extolled the importance of Wales’ world-class food and drink products to the country’s economy and culture. Shaun thinks there is room for expansion in the high-end restaurant sector in Wales, and would like to see more chefs in Wales “getting the credit” for serving Welsh products.

My first taster was Wye Valley asparagus risotto with Hafod cheese. This was a creamy and very satisfying dish. Peli Pabo goats’ cheese and beetroot salad was next, with small balls of the fresh soft cheese nestling on attractive salad leaves. Hafod cheese is made by Sam and Rachel Holden on Wales’ oldest certified organic dairy farm, Bwlchwernen Fawr, near Lampeter (Gold winner in the cheese small producer category). Peli Pabo Garlic and Herb Goat’s Cheese is produced by Y Cwt Caws on Anglesey (Bronze winner in the same category).

My next dish was Welsh Venison Centre faggots, mash and peas. The faggots had a meaty density and a rich liver flavour; just how I like them. The Welsh Venison Centre in the Brecon Beacons was a multiple award-winner in the 2011-12 awards, for its Venison haunch steak, Welsh rack of lamb, and Welsh belly of pork.

The fish course was fillet of Welsh seabass, Puffin potato cake and salsa verdi. This is wild Welsh line-caught seabass (from Pembrokeshire-based South & West Wales Fishing Communities Ltd.). The nature of the product and the skillful cooking (crispy skin and perfect timing) ensured this was a treat; seabass with a full-on fishy taste (and totally unlike a farmed seabass I had recently).

Puffin Produce Ltd grow potatoes and other vegetables (e.g., leeks, cabbage) in Pembrokeshire. Their red-skinned Rudolph Potato won gold in the Vegetables category of the recent awards. They are bred to be so tasty that you don’t need to add butter or salt. As well as being on the menu, Puffin had an attractive display of their vegetables on show, which included Rudolph potatoes, small Maris Pipers and gigantic baking potatoes.

The final dish was bread and butter pudding with Baravelli’s lemon and Brecon gin marmalade. This was my first chance to taste the marmalade that won the Wales the True Taste Product of the Year in the 2011-12 awards for Mark and Emma Baravelli (The Little Deli, Llandudno). A small blob was sitting by the side of the pudding on some crème fraiche, so its intense sweet-tangy flavour could be savoured alone.  

Among the exhibitors, The Carmarthenshire Cheese Company were promoting their Boksburg cheeses. The Bronze-winning Boksburg Blue was a very creamy, relatively mild though very tasty, soft blue cheese. I particularly liked the Boksburg Smoked Cheese, which had a striking depth and complexity of smoky flavours.

Gorno’s gourmet Italian sausages had some fine-looking examples on display and cooked up some samples. My favourite was the Piccante Calabrese. The Black Mountain Smokery displayed some classy smoked food gift hampers, which included their Bronze-winning traditional smoked salmon. Capital Pâtés & Terrines of Caerphilly had some interesting pâté flavours (and colour combinations).

Subzero° Ice Cream (with chief ice cream maker Kevin Jenkins) displayed a range of their ice cream desserts, made in the Rhondda mainly for the catering industry. I finished my highly enjoyable evening’s browsing with a small cone of their rich Gold-winning Luxury Vanilla Dairy Ice Cream.

The ffresh showcase highlighted some of the great food products of Wales. Many more companies, large and small, that supply high-quality artisan foods can be found via the Wales the True Taste website. In conjunction with retailers and restaurants that source locally, these products are becoming more accessible and more widely known. Now is a good time to be exploring the food of Wales.


ffresh restaurant and bar: www.ffresh.org.uk
Holden Farm Dairy: www.hafodcheese.co.uk
Y Cwt Caws: www.ycwtcaws.co.uk
The Welsh Venison Centre: www.beaconsfarmshop.co.uk
South & West Wales Fishing Communities Ltd: www.welshlinecaughtfish.org.uk
Puffin Potatoes Ltd: www.puffinproduce.com
Baravelli’s: www.baravelli.com
Carmarthenshire Cheese Company: www.carmenthshirecheese.co.uk
Black Mountain Smokery Ltd: www.smoked-foods.co.uk
Capital Pâtés: www.capital-pates.co.uk
Subzero Ice Cream: www.iamsubzero.com
Wales the True Taste Food and Drink Awards: www.walesthetruetaste.co.uk

Friday, 9 March 2012

Pieminister: Courgette and Chickpea Filo Pie


British Pie Week is drawing to a close. This is one of the more successful British food weeks, in part because it has transcended its promotional origins (Jus-Rol Pastry, General Mills) to take on a life of its own. There are pub pie promotions, for example, and various pie-making competitions around the UK.

My contribution to the blogosphere during British Pie Week 2012 is an attempt at a Pieminister Courgette & Chickpea Filo Pie, from the recipe in Pieminister: a pie for all seasons (Tristan Hogg and Jon Simon, 2011; pp. 94-95).

The recipe calls for onion wedges and courgette slices to be cooked up in olive oil in a large frying pan. Garlic, freshly chopped rosemary and thyme, and some chilli flakes are added, followed by a drained tin of chickpeas and halved cherry tomatoes, chopped rosemary and thyme, and some balsamic vinegar. This is all added to an ovenproof dish, with olive oil-brushed filo pastry - “scrunch it up loosely so it looks like a rose” – on top. This is an instruction that invites creative expression.

In my hurry to get started, I cut the red onions up too finely. The recipe calls for wedges of red onion, which effectively match the size of the courgette slices and halved cherry tomatoes. I’ll get it right next time, as I will be doing this surprisingly tasty pie again. During the summer, I will ramp up the fresh herb content with a selection of thymes from the herb garden (only the rosemary out there at the moment). I’ll also get more artistic with the filo.

The recipe suggests that the pie is good with hummus. They’re right. I served the pie warm with some cooled home-made hummus (another tin of chick peas, tahini paste, crushed garlic and the juice squeezed from a big lemon) and a green salad.

I was going to say that most pies made this week will be meaty, so I thought I would do something a little different by cooking this vegan recipe. However, before posting this I noticed that Nicki of yourlastmouthful.com fame (Cardiff foodie website and blog) has also cooked this very pie, and appears to have done a better job of it than me! So, instead, I’ll say this is one of the easiest recipes in the Pieminister cookbook to cook, and it is deservedly popular.

After just a few recipes, I am inclined to think that Pieminister: a pie for all seasons is a good cookbook, in that you quickly start trusting the recipes to deliver for you.

See also:
Pieminister: Homity Pie:

The Pieminister book:

Friday, 2 March 2012

The Blacksmiths Arms, Llanmaes


One strand running through this blog during 2012 will be a tour of village pubs in the Vale of Glamorgan. Some have become fairly well-known outside the area, for example, The Plough and Harrow at Monknash, while others have not. There are some hidden gems.

The village of Llanmaes lies just north of Llantwit Major (Llanilltud Fawr) in the heart of the Vale of Glamorgan; it’s the other side of the B4265 to Llantwit Major (and a footpath from that road means it is an easy walk from Llantwit Major). Llanmaes has a 13th Century church dedicated to St Cattwg (St Cadoc) and a pub: The Blacksmiths Arms.

The food is traditional, with some original twists. There is an oriental influence, and a creative use of cheese and nuts.

We often skip starters at pubs, but not here as they sounded so intriguing. The choices included Venison & Chilli Pate and Breaded Camembert Wedges.

I had the Stilton and Mushroom Knot. Crisp filo pastry parcels (literally knotted) sitting in a Chinese restaurant-style sweet chilli sauce prepare your taste buds for something oriental, but when you bite into them you get a hit of creamy Stilton with mushrooms and walnuts. The parcels shared a plate with salad leaves with a dark balsamic drizzle. This was an entertaining plate of food (in a good way), and a substantial starter.

My companion went for the Ginger and Lemongrass Chicken Sticks. These were skewered chicken breast fillets marinated in ginger and lemongrass, served with salad leaves and a Caesar dressing. The dressing came in its own pot (there was much more than required). The flavouring on the chicken was subtle; and apparently it could have been stronger.

Main courses on the current menu include Sirloin and Ribeye Steaks, Pork Medallions, Steak and Ale Pie, Stuffed Chicken Roulade, and Stilton and Vegetable crumble. There are also fish dishes, including Piri Piri Salmon Fillet, Whole Sea Bass, and Garlic and Ginger Swordfish Steak; salads as main courses; and interesting pasta and noodle dishes, including Hoi-Sin Beef and Teriyaki Chicken.

I went for Lamb Shanks with Vegetables and Minted Braising Liquor from the today’s Specials Board. The lamb was melt-in-your mouth. Not a youngster this time of year, but I really liked the slow-braised muttony flavours coming through. The rich minted gravy was a dream, especially concentrated on the greens under the shank (was that flipper shape deliberate, I wonder). The tomato added colour, rather than taste, while the vegetables served in a separate bowl – batons of carrots, peas and mange-tout - were fresh and well-cooked.

My companion had the Mushroom, Cranberry & Brie Wellington. This vegetarian wellington dish was an original creation. The golden puff pastry contained sautéed mushrooms, spinach, cranberries and hazelnuts, topped with Brie. This was served with a bowl of chips – good crunchy pub chips - and a share of the vegetable bowl.

Desserts include Wild Fig ice creams.

There is an admirable policy of sourcing locally and seasonally. Main courses peak in the £8 to £12 price range.

A good range of beers can be found on the handpumps; The Blacksmiths Arms has an entry in the Good Beer Guide 2012. There’s a pleasant seating area out front (the road’s not busy; it’s a quiet village). Yes: I’ve noted it as a potential summer pint stop off (handily just off the B4265)!

The interior has been remodelled, but with a good feel for what a traditional pub should be. The word ‘gastropub’ is bandied about on the website (not my favourite word; I like a pub to be a pub). However, there are locals at the bar and it certainly feels like a Vale of Glamorgan village pub. It’s probably referring to the creative spin the kitchen puts on their dishes.

The Blacksmiths Arms do Sunday Roasts, Tuesday is Steak Night, and Thursday is a themed night (each month food from a different country's cuisine is served). You get the impression the chef likes his work.

Next stop: The Six Bells in Penmark.

The Blacksmiths Arms, Llanmaes, near Llantwit Major, CF61 2XR, Vale of Glamorgan
Tel: 01446 795996

See also:
Plough and Harrow, Monknash




Tuesday, 21 February 2012

Food and Opera


Food and opera have always had an affinity with each other. This is especially the case for Italian food. Put some Puccini on the stereo and that spaghetti just tastes better somehow.

At the Wales Millennium Centre (WMC) in Cardiff Bay, food and opera are being combined both off and on the stage.

Last October, ffresh Bar and Restaurant celebrated its second anniversary in the WMC and its inclusion in The Good Food Guide 2012. This year, they are making the most of being under the same roof as the Welsh National Opera (WNO), with members of that resident company performing at special Supper and Song evenings.

On 3 February, members of the WNO chorus sang extracts from the company’s Spring Season (Beatrice & Benedict, Marriage of Figaro and La Traviata), while diners ate a 3-course meal that included salmon fishcakes, roast pork belly, and chocolate fudge cheesecake. After drinks in the bar and starters in the restaurant, Laura Pooley (pictured), Sian Meinir and Meriel Andrew, dressed in evening gowns and feather boas, performed a selection of arias, trios and duets accompanied by James Southall on the piano. They returned between the main course and dessert for a second set.

At the St David’s Day Dinner (1 March), diners will be entertained by harpist Katherine Thomas and soprano Gwenllion Evans. They will perform popular Welsh songs and songs by the Cardiff-born composer Ivor Novello (whose statue can be seen outside ffresh). Executive chef Kurt Fleming has created a menu full of Welsh ingredients. There will be cockles and laverbread to start, followed by roast rack and braised shoulder of Carmarthenshire lamb with faggots, mashed potato and glazed carrots. The dessert will be a bread and butter pudding with a Celtic twist, using Bravelli’s Brecon gin marmalade and Penderyn whisky crème anglaise. The restaurant is used to sourcing Welsh ingredients, through its pioneering Wales the True Taste partnership.

On May 11, the WNO Chorus return to ffresh for Dinner with Puccini, when they will be performing highlights from La bohème and Madame Butterfly. As with all the Supper and Song evenings, a three-course dinner, half a bottle of wine and entertainment costs £39 per person. These evenings are planned to become a regular feature at ffresh.

Meanwhile, food often adorns the WNO stage. Acting Deputy Stage Manager Katie Heath-Jones shared some secrets concerning how food is prepared for several opera productions in a recent WNO podcast. Although fake stage food is used, there’s often plenty of real food on stage too. In the café scene in La bohème, for instance, fresh chicken breasts, fresh French baguettes, bacon, brie and grapes adorn the table. Mimi eats a crème caramel, although the red wine is actually a famous brand of blackcurrant squash.

Regular grocery shopping trips are therefore part of the stage manager’s routine. In their Richard Jones production of Hansel and Gretel, setting up the food takes around 3 to 4 hours beforehand. There is a table groaning under the weight of black forest gateaux, jelly, profiteroles and other desserts. During the show it is thrown around the stage, and so there is also a long and messy clean-up operation afterwards.

La Traviata has a dinner party scene featuring chicken (though the oysters are fake), bowls of spaghetti are served in The Barber of Seville (although that steam is smoke put underneath the bowls just before they come onstage), fish was served in a previous Tosca production (actually a mashed banana), and champagne flows in Die Fledermaus and, to a lesser extent, in other productions. The champagne is either a non-alcoholic champagne, selected for the satisfying pop it gives when opened, or fizzy water with a bit of food colouring.

When Elijah Moshinsky created a new production of Beatrice & Benedict in 1994 for WNO, food became a character in the opera. It was both cooked and consumed onstage. The director’s instructions were for spaghetti and Napolitano sauce to be cooked onstage and served to the chorus and principals, while the auditorium should fill with the aroma of garlic. Cooking the meal was the responsibility of the stage manager.

The set features a kitchen, seen through a back window on the terrace of an elegant Italian villa. A cooker and a hob are situated just offstage from this. The original tomato sauce recipe was supplied by a member of the chorus, but because it was a secret recipe from his Italian family it was never written down and now cannot be replicated.

Beatrice and Benedict was revived a couple of times at the New Theatre, and is now being staged at the WMC for the first time. It starts with a feast and there is plenty of food on the table, but on the first night the pasta did not appear: glasses of champagne were bought out for the chorus instead. There was apparently some pasta cooked by the side of the stage, but with the much greater size of the arena and modern air extraction systems no aroma reached the audience. This is one aspect of the production that did not successfully transfer from the New Theatre.

When real food is bought onstage, each individual chorus singer has to be catered for in terms of allergies and other needs. There are also obvious considerations concerning the best food to eat while singing. Opera singers can get hungry while on stage: Pavarotti famously had a bowl of parmesan to hand in case of emergencies. The leftovers, after the chorus has finished, are apparently quickly snapped up by the crew.

Photo by Glenn Edwards, courtesy of ffresh Restaurant.

My review of Beatrice and Benedict for Buzz:

ffresh, Wales Millennium Centre, Cardiff Bay:

Katie Heath-Jones ‘Turning up the heat’ WNO Podcast (Jan 2012):
The second anniversary celebration dinner at ffresh:


Sunday, 19 February 2012

Creating a Community Garden 2

In a previous post (14 Jan 2012), I reported on the first stages of a project to convert an abandoned children’s play area into a community garden:

I will be posting regular updates on the Dinas Powys Community Growing Area, to keep residents of Dinas Powys informed and to help others seeking to transform wasteland into places where communities can grow their own food.

This project was initiated by Elizabeth Millard (Chairperson of the Dinas Powys Residents Group) and Councillor Keith Hatton (Plaid Cymru). They organized a second meeting on Saturday18 Feb at Murchfield Community Hall in Dinas Powys to discuss progress.

Rob McGhee is one of twelve Rural Regeneration Officers working for Creative Rural Communities (an initiative led by the Vale of Glamorgan council). He is in charge of Community Grown Food Projects (areas covered by other Officers include tourism, farm diversification, cycleways and footpaths). Rob was approached by Elizabeth and Keith a few months ago, and agreed that the Dinas Powys project would be ideal for Creative Rural Communities involvement. If you live outside the Vale, check to see if your local Council has an equivalent initiative.

Rob arrived at the meeting with plans he had drawn up for the site. The 940 square metres has been officially designated a ‘Community Growing Area’ on the plans and will have communal spaces and also individual plots. The larger plots will be a substantial 12 by 5 metres, while there will be a range of smaller ‘starter’ plots (with flexibility built in as larger plots can be subdivided). There will be some deep beds, which are easier for the elderly and infirm to cultivate. Wheelchair access will be provided, so slab paths will be laid at the entrance and around the site. The council agreed that an adjacent overgrown and abandoned council house garden could be incorporated, with the removal of a bramble-covered fence.

There will be one large communal storage shed for equipment (although individual lockers could be located within this shed). Keys to the double gate in the security fence will be supplied to local residents who garden plots, while a rota system will be established for caretaker keyholders to open the garden during certain hours of the day to allow access to everyone in the community.

Creative Rural Communities will supply funding to get the project started, although grants from other sources will be applied for to meet the full costs. The main source of additional funding is likely to be Tidy Towns (a Welsh Government initiative, described in the previous post). Rob will also help organize a community clean-up work party, to work alongside members of the local community in getting the site prepared.

Publicity is another area where Creative Rural Communities can provide assistance. More publicity is required in Dinas Powys, on the aims and timetable of the project, and on the specific inconvenience it may cause during the establishment phase. Due to the presence of contractor’s vehicles, for instance, the footpath between Nightingale Place and Sir Ivor Place will need to be closed for at least a month.

On the ground, three different contractors have already visited the site and given estimates for the costs of land clearance, removing the old wire fence, putting up security fencing, and supplying topsoil. Estimates of costs have been in the same ballpark, with one of the contractors having recently done a similar job in nearby St Andrews Major.

The meeting discussed a range of other issues, which may be relevant to similar projects. These including the need to cut hedges before birds start nesting, the determination of where cables lie under the soil (there is an adjacent electrical substation in this case), getting local schools involved, bringing water and electricity onto the site, and establishing a communal compost area. In the Vale of Glamorgan, compost is made from the Council’s kitchen waste roadside collection and is available for free if collected from the Cowbridge recycling plant (see link to previous post on recycling below).

Because this is a community garden and not a statutory allotment, there will be fewer restrictions on what can be done with the food (e.g., only a small proportion of food grown on an allotment can be sold). This makes for more flexibility and opens the possibility of regular produce sales, either on-site, at the Village Show, or via local shops and farmers markets, with some of the money feeding back into this project and other community activities.

At the meeting, Rob also handed out leaflets “fresh off the press” for Community Foodie: a new project (within the Creative Rural Communities sphere), that will be officially launched in March 2012, to identify, develop and support community food growing in the rural areas of Bridgend, Torfaen and the Vale of Glamorgan. I will post on that, along with further developments in the Dinas Powys Community Growing Project, at a later date.

As these photos (which I took this morning) illustrate, a community garden should greatly improve the environment in this area; turning it from an ugly space where underage drinkers and drug users hang out, into a place that brings the community together by providing a recreational meeting place and a source of locally-produced food.

The next project meeting at Murchfield Hall will be in late April or early May.

On the current schedule, Elizabeth, Keith and Rob are hopeful that the contractors can start work on the site sometime later in May.

Further information:
Creative Rural Communities is a regeneration and economic development initiative, led by the Vale of Glamorgan Council in partnership with various public, private and voluntary sector organisations.
Creative Rural Communities
The Old Hall, High Street, Cowbridge, Vale of Glamorgan CF71 7AH
http://www.creativeruralcommunities.co.uk/
http://www.valeofglamorgan.gov.uk/working/regeneration/rural_regeneration.aspx

Tidy Towns:
http://wales.gov.uk/topics/environmentcountryside/epq/cleanneighbour/tidytowns/?lang=en

Free compost from kitchen waste (and how to obtain it in the Vale of Glamorgan):
http://sfnottingham.blogspot.com/2012/01/co-mingling-in-vale-of-glamorgan.html

Friday, 17 February 2012

Pieminister: Homity Pie

Homity Pie is a British open vegetable pie, made with potatoes, onions and cheese. It started life during World War II, when Land Girls working under rationing restrictions made pies from vegetables that were easily available in the fields. The word ‘homity’ was made up for the pie - probably a local expression relating to rationing.

The Pieminister recipe for Homity Pie - in Tristan Hogg and Jon Simon’s Pieminister: a pie for all seasons (2011; pp. 42-43) – comes via Crank’s, who they acknowledge as “veggie pioneers”. Following Crank’s revival of this pie, there are now several variations in recent cookbooks.

Wholemeal pastry is a feature of Homity Pie recipes (including Crank’s and Pieminster’s). Some recipes suggest that you can use readymade shortcrust pastry as an alternative, but I think some of the rustic charm of this pie would be lost without wholemeal. Pieminister start the recipe with the pastry, asking you to sift the flour into a bowl. With my sieve, all the wholemeal bits stayed in the sieve, while a fine brown flour went into the bowl. So I dumped all the wholesome bits into the bowl as well (I have it on good authority that sifting also lightens the flour, so I was not wasting my time). Butter, salt, grated parmesan and an egg yolk are also added. This wholemeal pastry handles well, especially after an hour in the fridge.

The unique feature of the Pieminister Homity Pie is the addition of sweet potato (instead of the more commonly used leeks). This is sort of G.I. Joe getting it on with the Land Girls or, as the Pieminister book says, added “hippity, dippity doo dah” jazz hands. When you first mix the bright orange sweet potato flesh into the pale potato, onion and crème fraiche mixture, it looks like a component from a different recipe. However, it soon begins to make sense.

The recipe calls for two sweet potatoes. I used two rather large sweet potatoes, and didn’t scrimp on the other ingredients either. Pieminister suggests this serves four. Well, for our family of four it did two dinners! This is a pie that can be served hot or cold, so it’s pretty versatile. Last night I served it warm (rather than hot) with a tomato salad, while tonight I’ll be serving it cold with a wider range of salad accompaniments.

The breadcrumb and cheese topping is the icing on the cake of a Homity Pie. I’m glad I got out my Ninja Express Chop (yes, another Christmas Present, just like the Pieminister book) to do the breadcrumbs properly. The chopped curly parsley in the filling also works well (other recipes specify different herbs or no herbs at all; although the canny Hairy Bikers also make their Homity Pie with parsley).

The Pieminister Homity Pie is a particularly rich take on the Homity Pie. There’s a lot of butter involved, for a start. It also takes a bit of time to construct, but is definitely worth the effort. It’s comfort food at its best.

Other Homity Pie recipes stress the easy, quick and cheap possibilities of Homity Pie. The River Cottage recipe, for example, stresses these virtues and notes that any leftover vegetables can be incorporated – in the spirit of the original Land Girl philosophy. The pie also freezes well.

Another distinctive touch occurs in the Elm Tree Foods recipe, where dried capers are added with the cheese. Some Homity Pie recipes suggest you can add meat, in particular, bacon. I am not sure you still have Homity Pie if you add meat (remember those Land Girls, vegetables and rationing). I think this is a pie that should stay veggie.

Sunday, 12 February 2012

Change4Life Supermeals Challenge Day 14 and some conclusions

On the last day (Day 14) of my Change4Life Supermeals Challenge I cooked fabulous fish pie. I have been cooking all the recipes in the Change4Life Supermeals booklet, which is part of a Welsh Government initiative to help people prepare quick, easy and healthy meals on a limited budget.

Before my concluding thoughts, there’s the fish pie (recipe below) to consider. The recipe specifies a piece of Coley as the fish content. If money is very tight this would do, but I feel a mixture of white and oily fish is needed to make a fish pie worth the effort. Luckily, the tip for this recipe suggests you look out for fish pie mix from the fresh fish counter, which is cheap to buy. My fish pie mix came from Ashton’s fishmongers in Cardiff’s indoor market, and contained some salmon, tuna and at least three types of white fish.

I must admit I did break out the butter (for the first time during this challenge!) for the white sauce (rather than use low-fat spread), and also included a few halved hard-boiled eggs that happened to be in the fridge. We all enjoyed this one.

With the fairly large square pie dish I used, the potato amount specified was just enough to cover the fish mix, and I would usually add a bit more mash than this to make a thicker top (it’s not the most expensive component after all).

All 14 of these recipes worked for us. We preferred some more than others, obviously, and there were comments about it getting a bit samey, which was partly due to the sequence in the book (which I worked through in order).

One feature of all the recipes is that the children (aged 8 and 15) left empty plates. This is a result. In fact, the recipes are easy enough for this to also be a good recipe book to give to an older child to get them started on cooking. They could learn something about healthy food along the way.

None of the recipes lists salt as an ingredient. There should be enough salt in the food already, argues the booklet. I was surprised that I did not think any of the 14 recipes needed extra salt, and this will probably make me think more careful about the use of salt in dishes.

None of the recipes calls for sugar to be added. Only in one case - the sweet and sour sauce - did I miss any additional sweet component. I liked the way fruit was used, for flavouring and as a natural sweetness, for example, apples in the pork dish and the vegetable curry. This could have been taken further as a tip (e.g., dried apricots, pears, oranges).

We have a relatively low-fat diet normally, and therefore had no problems with the low-fat ingredients and lack of fatty foods. If I had done this challenge during the summer I am sure I would have noticeably lost weight, but the intense cold during the past fortnight had me reaching for the cake tin between meals. So, no discernible loss in weight!

Some of the recipes also lacked a bit of spice for me, but that was easily remedied, for instance, with a bit of chilli.

The recipe book has helped us keep grocery costs down over the past fortnight. This is because we have stocked up on basics for these recipes (e.g., pasta, rice, tins of tomatoes, tomato puree, tins of butter/cannellini beans, stock cubes, carrots and other standard vegetables, and cheaper cuts of meat and fish). We have not bought the more expensive ingredients that push up the grocery bill.

We (2 adults and 2 children) have been keeping scores throughout the challenge, and I can now reveal that the most popular Change4Life Supermeal recipes are, in reverse order, [dramatic Masterchef-style pause here]:

5. quick pitta pizzas (Day 2)

4. sensational spaghetti bolognese (Day 11)

3. 10-min chicken noodle dinner (Day 3)

2. hearty vegetable soup (Day 8)

1. easy vegetable curry (Day 13)

The dishes loaded with the freshest vegetables came out on top in our case. It might be worth noting that the vegetables came from our local greengrocer and a vegetable box scheme, and were quality produce (though, in line with the recipes, not breaking the bank). In comparison, the meat used in these recipes was not top quality (for cost reasons). An alternative strategy therefore would be to have meat less often, but go for something of better quality (e.g., organic free range chicken).

The Change4Life Supermeals recipe booklet aims to help you plan quick, easy meals on a limited budget. I think the booklet succeeds in this aim. It would be particularly useful for people who suddenly, for whatever reason, find they have to shop and cook for a family (or just themselves) on a reduced income.


fabulous fish pie
The ingredients: 700g potatoes peeled and diced, 425ml 1% fat milk, 25g low-fat spread, 25g plain flour, 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley (optional), 100g frozen peas, ground black pepper, 300g Coley fillet (thawed if frozen) skinned and in chunks, 25g reduced-fat mature cheese grated.

The method: Preheat oven. Boil potatoes, drain and mash with 2 tbsp milk. Use rest of milk, spread and flour into saucepan and bring to boil, stirring continuously, stir in parsley. Place chunks of fish in ovenproof dish, pour sauce over, then top with mashed potato and then cheese. Bake in oven 25-30 mins until top is brown. Serve with steamed or boiled broccoli.

319 kcals per portion.