Dating from
the 16th century, The Kings
Arms in Pentyrch is steeped in history. A handsome refurbishment has
recently secured its future. The Kings Arms is owned by Brains but, in a significant move, it is to be run by Nick Otley and his team from the Otley Brewing
Company.
This
weekend marks the pub’s official opening, with a Beer Festival, BBQ and live
music. At an event on Friday (15 June), Nick
Otley (managing director of Otley; pictured) said, “we wanted to make it into a community pub again,
but at the same time bring a bit of modernity and a contemporary feel to it.”
The sympathetic renovation has incorporated many original features of the Grade
II listed building, including the flagstone floor, fireplace and oak beams. The
contemporary feel extends to the food and drink on offer.
The menu
showcases Welsh produce, and dishes cooked using beer. Ingredients include Welsh
mussels (e.g., sautéed mariniére style with home-made bread), Breconshire lamb
(e.g., slow-braised shank in Otley ale, with laverbread and new potatoes),
Welsh sirloin steak (from W.J. George Butcher in Talgarth), and Madgett’s Farm
free-range chicken (e.g., with chorizo and Otley ale jus). Expect pheasant,
locally-produced sausages, duck and other meats to feature seasonally. There is
a Goan beef curry and deep-fried Pollock fillet (in Otley ale beer batter) on
the current menu; while vegetarian dishes include Ratatouille of Charred
Mediterranean vegetables (e.g., with pasta or grilled polenta, and
Cardiff-grown tomato compote). Desserts include Welsh gold home-made ice cream.
The head chef is Ken Bell.
My
selection from the BBQ was the line-caught “Chesil beach” Mackerel (pictured),
served with bread, tapenade and selected salads. Own-label chutneys were to
hand. The mackerel was large and meaty. The salads were varied, with some
flavour surprises (star anise?) and excellent olives, and the home-made bread
was light and very good.
Nick Otley
led a beer tasting in a marquee in the pub’s garden, as the wind outside played
havoc with the adjacent awning. He talked, in particular, about the Otley ales
Croeso and Thai-Bo.
Croeso (ABV 4.2%) was described as a really good
session beer, refreshing and easy-to-drink, with “a good hop presence and a lot
of citrus notes,” by Nick. “You’re going to get grapefruit, some people say
lemon, others grass – green grass, cut grass, that sort of thing,” he said.
Nick noted that we were drinking a “green beer” that was “fresh-to-cask”
(casked 2 weeks previously), so it also had a sulphurous nose (known as “Burton snatch”) that
naturally disappears. Nick described Croeso as “having an open palate
food-wise,” although it won’t compete with strong food flavours. Croeso (Welsh
for “welcome”) has become one of the company’s bestselling main product beers.
Thai-Bo (ABV 4.6%) was first launched as a speciality
beer in summer 2001, but its success may result in it becoming available
year-round. “It was born out of a conversation I had in London with beer writer Melissa Cole”, said
Nick, “it’s a golden ale flavoured with lime peel, lime leaf, lemongrass and
galangal – flavours you would normally associate with a Thai green curry.” It’s
a combination (with Sorachi Ace hops) that you wouldn’t normally expect to
work; but they have done it rather well, with the right amount of
understatement. “You have sharpness of lime leaf and lime zest there, giving a
clean flavour, the subtlety of galangal, giving a little bit of warmth to the
back of the throat, and lemongrass in the aroma”, said Nick. “It is well suited
to food, although we are still searching for the perfect food match.” It may
not be Thai green curry, according to Nick, as the clash may not be to the
benefit of either beer of curry.
Other Otley
ales showcased at the Beer Festival include Motley Brew (ABV 7.5%), a seasonal IPA beer named after head brewer
Matthew Otley.
Ffion Jones from Brains Brewery led the tasting of two of
her company’s beers. The first was the classic Brains SA (ABV 4.2%), which has been brewed in Cardiff for over 50 years. “It’s made from a
trio of hops - Challenger, Fuggles and Golding - and has a note of spirit in its
aroma that adds a bit of mystique,” said Ffion, “and it goes especially well
with chicken dishes.”
The other
beer was the first product from the Brains
Craft Brewery, which opened less than a month ago on their main brewery
site in Cardiff.
“The Craft Brewery is a 10-barrel plant for trying out different techniques,
flavours and hops,” explained Ffion, “basically to let our brewers loose on
experimenting.” All at Sea (ABV 5.2%) is a traditional-style IPA, made
with Admiral and Bramling Cross hops. “The hops give it a bit of an appley
taste, with spice notes. It’s different from anything Brains has done before”,
said Ffion. I thought this relatively
strong beer benefited from the presence of food; that’s a glass of it in the
photo, appropriately enough, next to my mackerel. The second release from the
Brains Craft Brewery will be Barry
Island IPA (ABV 6.0%), created by “Barry boy” Simon Martin using hops from
the USA.
Brains
Craft Beers will be available at a range of their top cask pubs, including The
Albany in Roath, Goat Major and City Arms in Cardiff city centre and, of
course, The Kings Arms.
The Otley
Brewing Company’s first pub was The Bunch of Grapes in Pontypridd, not far from
Cilfynydd (where the brewery was founded in 2005). The Kings Arms is their
fourth pub, and the nearest to Cardiff.
The Kings
Arms looks set to flourish as a local community pub, and is certain to attract
beer lovers from miles around to sample the latest ales from Otley and the Brains
Craft Brewery. The collaboration between Brains and Otley here raises the
enticing prospect of a future collaboration between artisan brewers from Otley and
Brains Craft Brewery. Watch this space!
The Kings Arms
Church Road, Pentyrch, Cardiff CF15 9DF
(029)
20890202
http://www.kingsarmspentyrch.co.uk
Otley Brewing Company
http://www.otleybrewing.co.uk
Brains
http://www.sabrain.com
All food and
drink mentioned in this post provided free by The Kings Arms.
