Royal Arcade opened in 1858 and is the oldest surviving arcade in Cardiff. It was designed and built by James & Price, for the Cardiff Arcade Company, and connects The Hayes to St Mary Street.
walking tour of Cardiff, we enter the Royal Arcade from The Hayes, with Dr
Martens (boots) and Scribbler (greeting cards of dubious taste) on your left-hand
side and Rossiters (Bath-based designer department store) to your right. Second
on the left, though you’ll have to walk a few units to find the door:
Wally's Delicatessen and Wally's Kaffeehaus
38-46 Royal Arcade CF10 1AE (2022 9265)
This family-run delicatessen, currently owned by Steven
Salamon, has been a feature of the Royal Arcade since 1981. The deli has
expanded considerably since it first opened and stocks around 1,600 products
from around the world. It’s great for those unusual ingredients and foods
imported from continental Europe. In
2011, Wally’s Kaffeehaus opened upstairs. This Viennese-style coffee house
specializes in Open Sandwiches, such as the Tyrol (roast chicken breast,
chorizo, shaved manchego cheese, Piquillo peppers, garlic mayonnaise, rocket,
black olives and toasted sourdough) and the Baden (German smoked black ham,
Hereford Hop cheese, chutney, balsamic onions and sliced pear, on wholegrain
seeded bread). Vegetarian options include the Rohrbach (Grilled aubergine and
Caerphilly cheese). The Aufschnitt comprise sharing platters of cold meats or
cheeses. The menu draws on the deli produce downstairs, so if you particularly
like something chances are you can buy it on the way out (Delicatessen and
Kaffeehaus, both Food Hygiene Rating 5: very good. June 2013).
32 Royal Arcade CF10 1AE (2022 3158)
Fresh Baguette opened in 2000 and has established itself as
one of the most popular independent sandwich shops in Cardiff. Gareth Lawton
and his partner Samantha make good use of Twitter to promote the business, with
daily specials often posted in the morning (@freshbaguette1). Yesterday’s was Falafel
and Humous Baguette with salad and toasted cumin seeds. My most recent involved
chicken, bacon, mayo, rocket, red onion and salami cracking. Easily the most
creative sandwich-makers in the city; they are not afraid to be experimental, with
novel ingredient combinations and spicy sauces. Regulars can also work through
the 100-plus regular fillings for baguette and paninis on the menu. Service is
friendly and efficient. Expect to see a queue outside at lunchtimes (Food
Hygiene Rating 4: good. June 2013).
The alley across the way, Tabernacle Lane, links Royal
Arcade with Morgan Arcade.
28-30 Royal Arcade CF10 1AE (2022 9497)
Vom Fass Cardiff sells oils, vinegars and spirits from barrels
(Food Hygiene Rating 5: very good. June 2012).
The cupcake shop Velvet Ice (formerly 20 Royal Arcade),
which opened in 2011, has closed. Has the inexplicable (to me) fashion for
Further along this southern side of the arcade, there is a Health
with Herbs (24 Royal Arcade).
I intended to take lunch in Harleys Coffee Shop (8 Royal Arcade)
when my walking tour made it to the Royal Arcade. But, alas, this
long-established coffee shop closed earlier this year after 13 years of trading in the arcade.
This side of the arcade also has a new Oxfam book shop, with
vinyl records upstairs. At the entrance from St Mary Street, there’s a sign of
the times: an electronic cigarette shop.
Cross to the other side of the arcade, which currently
starts with a seasonal Christmas shop.
Royal Sweet Shop
7 Royal Arcade CF10 1AE (2038 7438)
Traditional newsagent with rows of those tall jars of old-fashioned
sweets (Food Hygiene Rating 5: very good. June 2013).
There are no further food-related units in Royal Arcade.
However, of note along this side of the arcade is the very wonderful stationary
and art supply shop Pen and Paper (where our eldest daughter has a Saturday job).
Further along, by the entrance to Tabernacle Lane, is the Ian
Allen bookstore and model shop (31 Royal Arcade), specializing in books on
Carry on, back in The Hayes, turn left and walk up to the
first of the entrances to Morgan Arcade. I’ll see you there next time.
Previously, on the Walking Tour of Cardiff:
Mill Lane and
and Castle Street
Street and Quay Street
Road East 3
Road East 2
Road East 1